Our small boat is chugging hard against the oncoming current as we glide north along the Shire River. We are on the same course as that of David Livingston, the great European explorer, in the 1800’s. Our trip is not an effort to open the continent to trade, but is being carried out to accommodate American aid workers who want to “get the feel of Africa.” Our guide is cautiously watching a pod of hippopotamus a short distance in front and off to the right of the boat. Even from this distance it is easy to see the male hippo staring at us, eyes only slightly visible above the water line. The rest of pod seems not to notice as they depend on the dominant male to insure their safely. He is quite a big one and as I watch him eye our boat I am fully aware of the description given to these “river horses” by one National Geographic reporter. (The name hippopotamus in ancient Greek means, “river horse”.)
“A three-ton amphibious tank” dominates Africa’s marshlands – wielding powerful jaws, fearsome foot-long canines, and a hide as tough as nails. Hippos are considered one of the most dangerous animals; by some accounts, they kill more people in Africa than any other beast. These unlikely athletes are capable of surprising speed and agility, with the ability to run nearly 30 miles an hour and corner on a dime. Their muscle-wrapped jaws are powerful enough to bite through small boats and their canines are sharp enough to rip open a lion but they are strictly plant eaters. Footage of hippos battling each other, and of two or three hippo separating themselves to repel lion claws, and outrunning the pack is simply amazing.”
A couple of them separate from the pod, lowering themselves below the surface, then disappear. I wonder if they are making the decision to go away or come toward us. The guide must be wondering the same thing because he quickly turns our boat into deeper water. A little way up the river we carefully approach another pod, then another and another. He notes this stretch of the Shire has a very high population of hippo. He need not bother. It is evident. Coming around a turn in the river we approach a large herd of elephant. The guide pays little attention, even to those giant creatures standing well out in neck deep water. He must sense our concern. “They will not come after us. We are safe with the elephant. It is the hippo we must watch. They kill more people in Africa than any other animal.” With this he looks past the elephants, and studies a spot near the horizon where another pod of hippo lounge near the shoreline and pose the next caution for our small boat. It’s all in a day’s work and life in Malawi, Africa.